BURBERRY’S Autumn/Winter 2021 collection is understandably stripped down, but in no way does it cut itself some slack.
A spoken word piece by Shygirl opens the show, set on a beige stage, but what comes out isn’t as Burberry beige as one might expect from the storied tweedy British fashion house. An interview of Burberry chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci by Vogue posits that the collection is inspired by forest exploration outfits at the turn of the last century. That explains the general scout-uniform vibe of the collection, but what charming scouts they make. Think leather caps and cute little jackets.
However, this is Mr. Tisci we’re talking about (early 2000s Givenchy — he joined Burberry in 2018) so there’s a touch of untamed pre-Raphaelite beauty, side by side with an exploration-outfit chic coupled with a little bit of quaint patchwork. The brand’s choices for references brandish its Britishness, and we like it.
The theme of natural exploration is seen in prints that seem to point to tree bark, splayed across more urban creations. The same fabric is cut into strips or squares and appliqued on clothes, giving them movement that reminds one of leaves, walks and trees. To reflect wildlife, copious amounts of eco-fur in trims and in full-length coats were seen.
Cuffs are also snipped just so also to make them move (making a pair of pants seem like a chunk off of some kinetic art) and even glamazonian outfits like a golden trench coat is given that homespun treatment with fringe.
There’s an odd sort of simplicity in there, perhaps to reflect changing times: all of the outfits can transition from day to night, but, more importantly, the beige totes (think of your canvas beige grocery totes, but in lambskin) point to a utilitarianism that seems to be the fashion, given the times.
Watch the show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naYcSM-GqeQ. — Joseph L. Garcia
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